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Frames

Frames

 

Frames together with beams are made from one piece of plywoodFrames together with beams are made from one piece of plywood. Drawing them on plywood requires great care. It should be remembered that the dimensions of the frames are given taking into account the thickness of the skin. On the drawing of the frame, tracing paper is applied, the center line and the outer edge of the frame are drawn minus the thickness of the skin. The width of the frames should be taken 10 - 12 mm, above the keel - a little more.

 

Beams and frames form one whole. The height of the beams is about 6 mm, and the thickness of the deck, about 2 - 2.5 mm, must be subtracted when drawing. The upper deck, just like on a real ship, must be destroyed. The chord height of the bulge is 1 mm for every 50 mm of the beam length.

 

Since this curve, which is a part of the circumference, is repeated on all beams, it is most convenient to make a template for drawing it. To give the deck more rigidity, triangles - knits are left on the frames on both sides, under the beams.

 

Beams in the case when it is under some hole in the deck, cut through. If the model is two- or three-deck, then one or two more rows of beams should be located under the upper deck on the frames. On each frame, it is necessary to mark the constructive waterline and the lower or upper edge of the velvet.

 

After half of the frame is applied to the tracing paper, including the center line, the notches for the keel frame and the corresponding frame number, the tracing paper is applied to the plywood, where, using copy paper, this software is transferred half of the frame. Then they turn the tracing paper around the middle line and draw the second half. This operation is repeated every drawing! about the frame.

 

After that, the frames are cut out with a jigsaw. By folding the frames in sequence one by one, the future, albeit compressed, shape of the hull can be seen. All frames, with the exception of the front ones, have a cut at the bottom for attaching them to the keel frame from above, while the front frames on the keel frame are fitted from below and therefore have a cut in the beam.

 

After half of the frame is applied to the tracing paper, including the center lineWhen assembling, carefully pushing the cut apart, the frames are put on the keel frame. Then it is installed on the slipway and each frame is carefully glued. If gaps are formed between the frame and the keel frame, then they are filled with cardboard of the appropriate thickness so that excessive stress is not created in the frames. When installing the frames, make sure that they are perpendicular to the slipboard and that the waterline marks on their sides are at the same height relative to the slipboard. This height is best checked with a ruler or thin staff. Then it is advisable to nail each frame with a few thin studs.

 

For further reinforcement of the hull, wooden blocks are glued between the individual frames at the height of the decks, as well as where the channels will later be attached. These blocks must be equal in length to the spacings. Similar rows of bars can be placed between the frames at the upper deck and in the keel area. As a result, the body becomes more rigid.

 

After assembling the frames, the transom is attached. Since the sternpost protruded above the transom, it is better to make the latter from two halves. Along the deck, the transom was slightly curved, approximately the same as the beams. It had cannon ports and hatches. The boards, of which the transom consisted, can be depicted with notches, passing them obliquely downward from the stem. The transom is attached to the last frame, and on the keel frame it is fixed by means of strips on both sides of the stem. In the same way, a valance with a hole for a tiller is installed.

 

 

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